Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil

 

FORMULATIONS RESEARCH

Sunday Riley
Luna Sleeping
— Night Oil

Price:  $160.00

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While researching product that is highly-active in formulation, yet still calms, hydrates and treats the skin, we stumbled across Sunday Riley’s Luna Sleeping Night Oil. As we dissect the ingredients, we also dive deep into research of each of them, exploring whether a few could be formulated into our Made with You range.

FYI: We’re creating an unparalleled micro-range of activated essentials. Find out how you can co-design your own natural skincare range with leading experts – and get it free for an entire year.

 
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Sunday Riley’s Luna Sleeping Night Oil is a restorative treatment for correcting lines and wrinkles, as well as sun and pollution damage to skin. The formulation is a retinol based, with cold-pressed avocado, chia and grape seed oils to leave a glowing complexion to the skin. With the rich blend of high-fat oils, this repair treatment aims to combat dryness and rough textures, as well as minimising pores. The potent synergy between natural botanicals and a powerful retinol application works so harmoniously due to the inclusion of a new retinol formulation known as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.

The blue pigment in this magical oil is thanks to blue tansy, a Moroccan chamomile that has potent calming properties, reducing redness and irritations for a visibly balanced, calm, and even-toned complexion. This formula is without parabens, sulphates and phthalates, and is said to be the ‘holy grail’ for an active restorative night treatment.

 
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Who are Sunday Riley?

Sunday Riley is a high-performance skincare brand backed by science, balanced with botanicals. The brand uses advanced and clinically proven ingredients in unison with balancing botanicals for fast-acting formulas, without the irritation. They are committed to developing their products to be greener by ensuring preservative levels are low and manufacturing in small batches to ensure the integrity of each ingredient is kept.

The predominant ingredient suppliers are based in USA, Japan, Germany, UK, France and Italy, to ensure the ingredients are sourced in their purest form. Each product is scented using flower and plant extracts and oils; no artificial fragrance is added. 

 
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First impressions

Fragrance
Usually retinol-based products have quite a chemical scent to them, particularly when they’re in conjunction with other active lab-made synthetics. Because of the blue tansy, the Luna Night Oil is slightly less chemical, however still has an intensity. The smell fades quickly.

Texture
This oil has an incredibly lightweight texture. In application, it has the standard fatty-oil texture we all know. Once smoothed over the skin, it quickly dries to the touch due to the retinol component which generally stiffs onto the skin almost immediately.

Efficacy
Sunday Riley’s Luna Sleeping Night Oil is a crowd favourite for a reason. The retinol is strong enough to fight through sub-clinical and hormonal acne, and the moisturising oils work to balance skin tone and nourish the surface of the skin. This treatment needs to be at night only for due to its retinol component. It takes about five days to discover the benefits of this oil, and users need to wear SPF during the day as retinol is known to heighten photosensitivity to UV rays.

 
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Ingredient watch

read our full Formulation Analysis

The Good

Persea Gratissima (Extra Virgin, Cold Pressed Avocado) Oil is a rich carrier oil for treating dry, dehydrated, damaged and mature skin types.

Vitis Vinifera (Organic, Cold Pressed Concord Grape) Seed Oil is an effective treatment in reducing hyperpigmentation.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HR) provides anti-ageing effects with minimal irritation, as well as a new active formula to fight against mild to moderate acne.

Tanecetum annuum (Blue Tansy) Oil has sky-high antimicrobial effects to skin as well as powerful anti-inflammatory capabilities.

The Questionable

CI 61565 (Green 6) is a synthetic pigment derived from coaltar (bituminous coal).

CI 60725 (Violet 2) synthetic dye produced specifically from petroleum or coal tar sources, however is FDA approved for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

 
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Packaging review

Sunday Riley’s Luna Sleeping Night Oil is packaged in a glass jar with a dropper to control the quantity of the product being used.

 

Formulation full analysis

The Good

Persea Gratissima (Extra Virgin, Cold Pressed Avocado) Oil is a rich carrier oil for treating dry, dehydrated, damaged and mature skin types. When used in its natural form, Avocado Oil can promote collagen synthesis and decrease inflammation during wound-healing processes. This ingredient is often used in collaboration with other essential oils to carry prominent micronutrients and antioxidants deeper into the skin. 

Vitis Vinifera (Organic, Cold Pressed Concord Grape) Seed Oil is a powerhouse when it comes to providing maximum antioxidant count to the skin. It’s rich in polyphenols which makes it an effective treatment in reducing hyperpigmentation.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is a cosmetic grade ester of all-trans retinoic acid. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HR) is the sister to the retinoid family (Vitamin A) – binding to retinoid receptors to initialize a myriad of skin benefits. The new formulation of HR provides the anti-ageing effects with minimal irritation, as well as a new active formula to fight against mild to moderate acne. Another key benefit to HR is its ability to improve hyperpigmentation that have developed through hormonal changes and sun exposure.

Tanecetum annuum (Blue Tansy) Oil also known as Moroccan Chamomile. With sky-high antimicrobial effects, this oil delivers anti-inflammatory capabilities due to Azulene component of the oil – the pigment that gives it its blue-marine colour. For anyone suffering from inflammation, enlarged pores, congestion, or suffers from dry-skin conditions, this ingredient is key.

The Questionable

CI 61565 (Green 6) is a cosmetic colourant used for its anthraquinone colour (red and yellow). This synthetic pigment can be derived from animals, plants, and synthetic sources for foods, cosmetics and other products. Drug and cosmetics (D&C) colours are widely derived from coaltar (bituminous coal), which is consistently tested on animals due to its carcinogenic properties.  

CI 60725 (Violet 2) is a synthetic dye produced specifically from petroleum or coal tar sources, however is FDA approved for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Like other D&C colours, Violet 2 is tested on animals due to its carcinogenic properties. The EWG has alerted high concerns of this ingredient for organ system toxicology.

 

Key Takeaway

We absolutely love the formulation of this product – having active ingredients with anti-inflammatory ones to counteract the well-known irritation that actives can instigate is very well done. Although we know there is a place for retinoids in the market, we are still considering whether this is something we can add to an activated essentials range for all people to use – particularly those with sensitivities. Despite that, we won’t be using any colour additives in our product to enhance the natural formulas, as there are too many risks associated with them, particularly when formulated with actives such as retinol.

 

Co-Design Your Activated Essentials —

Here at Noéma, we’re busy researching the best ingredients - so that we can make the best activated essentials for you, with you. We’re taking a radically new direction in skincare; we use you as the key ingredient.

By collaborating with industry experts such as naturopaths, biochemists, product specialists and formulators, our aim is to create an Activated Essentials product range with the best ingredients, formula and design.

We’re taking applications from our diverse community to contribute to co-designing an essential micro-range of products right for them. Get involved in upcoming events and workshops covering wellness, self-care and design.

 

Thoughts?

Have you tried the Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Oil?

Do you use Retinol in your routine to fight specific skin conditions?

Let us know your experiences with Sunday Riley or other retinols below.


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